Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
